Guess what?! I missed my last blog instalment because I was on Mars. That was the feeling. Actually I was on an island off the the southern end of Brazil's coastline; a place where horse and cart move goods and people, and human existence feels insignificant against the incredible nature that surrounds. Internet? Pfff.
So many things on Ilha do Superagui stopped me in my tracks and demanded my open heart and attention. The nesting grounds for the endangered purple-faced parrot, for instance; then again when I saw the last colony of lion-faced monkeys in existence. Dolphins came regularly to launch their friend Dolphin Dog thrillingly into the air and play with him for as long as he could swim amongst them, and the 40 kilometre deserted beach made me feel like I was a million miles from civilization. And the air. I know clean air. But I have never come accross air like this. Distractingly sweet; guiltfully alive. And what about the mysterious carving in sandstone island rocks?!
I wont describe any of these further. I need space to tell you about the most special thing about Superagui, which is the healthy and vibrant community; custodians of this special reserve.
They get it. They didn’t need to be told by UNESCO that their island has the most significant coastline in the Southern Hemisphere. The Swiss-French colony who settled the area knew that the nature and their community were precious. Of the 1800 inhabitants who live on Superagui now, only 40 were born outside of the island. Non-natives are not allowed to move there; they can only live on Superagui if they marry into a local family. Visitor numbers are controlled.
Superaguians subsist off fishing, and the men fish daily. Their catch is small, and they wont fish if the weather suggests that they don’t. The children are extremely well educated for an island community, and many continue to University. Popular degrees are Oceanography, environmental science or National Park Management. Despite their education, young people seem not to long for a life that is different, possibly one more technology-rich. They look forwards to growing up and doing what their parents have done, or take care of the National Park which comprises 95% of the island.
There are a handful of Inn’s, or Pousada in Portuguese. They wont provide a comfortable stay to a standard which one finds in quality Poursadas on the mainland. Guests live like the natives do. It feels like camping with the illusion that you are staying in a permanent dwelling. There will be sand in the bed despite your best efforts, and the roof will leak. Breakfast will be the same as what they have eaten for decades: a white bread roll, black coffee with long life milk, a piece of fruit. Lunch is a buffet of battered fish, rice, black beans and a few pleasant surprises. Dinner, a hamburger. It's not foodie heaven.
But the people will make you never want to leave. The outside world fast became a distant memory when I tuned in to the harmony in which the people of Superagui exist. The whole community weaves passion and effort into each other's lives, whether it’s launching a boat, helping a busy pousada, or towing a capsized vessel from the sandbar.
T
here is no medical center on the island. Young men help the elderly go by boat for medical care.
Locals are curious about new people, and will be shy for the first few days. They open up slowly and naturally. If you are interested in fishing however, friendships will develop fast and with the intensity that one knows in such a religion.
My father is an avid fisherman. He made the most authentic, heart-filled friendships on Superagui and cried when he saw the extraordinary number of locals come down the beach to wave us goodbye. That happened right after he exchanged his most precious possessions with theirs – eskies, shirts, beer holders, fishing line.
You don’t need to love fishing to love Superagui. Bring Sacred Meal or Pulse if you are concerned about the lack of appropriate food. Stay longer than 4 days to really settle in to the rhythms of nature. Walk in the rain, take the horse and cart up to the 7th kilometre of deserted beach where the shells wash up, hike in to see the lion faced monkey, or take the boat to see the purple-faced parrot island. Breathe deeply. Stop thinking about the need for comfort. Sometimes, in parts of the world like Superagui, it's necessary in order to feel the magic.
One day a couple from the city arrived and hated Superagui immediately - all that white sand and open space! They sympathised with me that my children must be having the most difficult time staying on an island such as this. I thought about the day my children were having: swimming for hours, watching that amazing dog with the dolphins, horse and cart rides to collect shells, playing with the local kids. I agreed with the couple and moved on. It was difficult for my children. The day never had enough hours.
Stay: Pousada Sobre As Ondas. Best pousada by far! This travel company books for them and can arrange all of your travel needs.
When: Remember the southern hemisphere summer is December to March.
Avoid November when biting flies hatch.
Avoid major holidays such as New Year and Carnival if you want to sleep in peace. Superaguians are all very natural but they are still Brazilians!
How to get there: Fly from Rio or Sao Paulo to Coritiba. Get the famous train down to Paranagua or book a private van. The Superagui ferry will pick you up, otherwise they will arrange a small tin boat to ferry you. It cuts the trip down from two and a half hours to forty minutes.